从巴亚尔塔到瓦哈卡
村上春树
日本现代著名小说家
其作品风格深受欧美影响，基调轻盈，被誉为日本80年代的文学旗手
代表作有《且听风吟》、《挪威的森林》、《海边的卡夫卡》等
Murakami Haruki
A famous Japanese novelist, his works were greatly influenced by the western literature and known as the leading figure of Japanese literature in the 1980s.
Representative works: Hear the Wind Sing, Norwegian Wood, Kafka on the Shore, etc.
在墨西哥旅行了一个月，那段时间里碰到的几个人都问我，“你为什么来墨西哥”，每次都问得我有些困惑。因为我觉得问话里含有一种微妙意味，仿佛说我何苦选择墨西哥而不是其他国家作为旅行目的地。
保罗·塞劳的一部小说有个场面，说一个来到非洲的美国女孩讲述自己为什么满世界跑来跑去。很久以前看的，具体词句记不准确了，错了请原谅。大致内容我想是这样的：“会在书本上读到什么，会在照片上看到什么，会听到什么，但我若不亲自去那里实际看看就理解不了，心里就不踏实。举例说，我不能不用自己的手摸一摸希腊卫城的柱子，不能不把自己的脚浸入死海的水中。”她为了触摸卫城的柱子而到希腊去了，为了把脚浸入死海而到埃及去了。她没办法停下来。她去埃及登金字塔，去印度顺恒河而下……也许你说那么做并无意义，何况还是没完没了的。可是，若把各种各样的表层理由一一抽掉，旅行就无从谈起了。说到底，我想这恐怕就是旅行所具有的最正当的动机和存在理由——没有理由的好奇心，和对现实感触的需求。
不过墨西哥的情况略有不同。旅行前我同一个美国新闻界人士交谈，告诉他往下自己要去墨西哥旅行四个星期，他给我这样一个忠告：
“到了墨西哥，他们肯定问你出于何种理由来墨西哥旅行那么长时间。”
“唔。”
“到时候你这么回答即可，”他以认真的神情说，“就说自己准备写一本关于墨西哥菜的书。记住了？墨西哥菜！这是能得到他们理解的惟一理由。这样就会一帆风顺。”
“原来如此。”
“不过这里边也有个小小问题。”
“什么问题呢？”
“一旦说起墨西哥菜，他们会永远说下去：我母亲的拿手菜如何如何，我奶奶的拿手菜如何如何……”
结果，我决定不提写一本关于墨西哥菜的书这个话题。
在瓦哈卡偶然碰到一个日本女孩，在广场前面的咖啡馆和她边喝冷啤酒边闲聊的时候，她问：“来到墨西哥的感觉，你还没怎么有吧？或许该说是不适合吧。你为什么选墨西哥作为旅行目的地呢？”
经她那么一说，我渐渐觉得自己这个人真有可能不适合墨西哥这个国家，越想越觉得自己这个人是由于错误动机来到错误场所的错误存在。说老实话，迄今为止我本身并未觉得墨西哥这个国家同自己之间有什么隔阂。而一旦介意，隔阂感的可能性简直就像癌细胞一样异常迅速地繁殖起来。为什么呢？因为我完全不具有足以反驳的理论根据——不能说“没那回事，我并非不适合墨西哥的人”。我只是像塞劳小说中的女孩那样，以就是想看看它、就是想摸摸它这一单纯的理由去了“那里”来了“这里”，是“想去墨西哥那地方看一眼”这一简单的心情把我带到了这里。
不过，这样的回答（无论回答得多么真诚）大概是不顶什么用的。我想，恐怕需要更有说服力的回答。在墨西哥旅行期间我始终有这样的感觉。事实上我在墨西哥遇到的外国人大多具有自己此时、如此置身于墨西哥的明确理由——居住在墨西哥的理由，游览在墨西哥的理由，为墨西哥这个国家所吸引的理由。有人为阿兹台克和玛雅文化及其遗迹如醉如痴，有人为墨西哥的美术心往神驰，有人对墨西哥的自然风物一往情深，有人为墨西哥人之所以为墨西哥人的墨西哥性深深折服。某种美国人将墨西哥作为同某种美国性相对立的存在加以把握，某种日本人将墨西哥作为同某种日本性相对立的存在予以解读，他们讲述墨西哥时带有一种特殊的眼神。每次遇上那些人，我都强烈而深切地认识到自己身上日本意识的缺失，甚至产生类似愧疚的心情。在这个意义上，墨西哥未尝不可以说是个奇妙的国家。
FROM VALLARTA TO OAXACA
During my trip in Mexico, I was asked by several people about the reasons why I came to Mexico, the questions of which may have some sort of implication so far as I was concerned and turned out to be a bit confusing every time when they were asked.
In a novel written by Paul Theroux, a girl from America, when asked why she always seemed to be on the road when she was in Africa, gave the answer as follows: “I could read something from a book, see something in a picture or hear stories from others. But I would never know what it really feels like to be there. ” As for that, I believe the core reasons for traveling are the pure curiosity and the demand of feelings towards reality.
But things in Mexico were a bit different. I remember a girl whom I encountered in Oaxaca. She asked me while she was drinking the beer, “I gathered you haven’t had much feeling towards Mexico. Why do you choose to come here?” Well, even I believed there was no estrangement between me and the country, I began to question myself whether this country was right for me.
My reason of coming to Mexico was as simple as that I might just want to have a look at this country. But I knew it wasn’t convincing, not when I was in Mexico. In fact, lots of people I encountered had strong motives about why they came to Mexico. Some were attracted by its culture or people while others were drown to its art or natural landscape. Japanese took it as an opposite of Japanese culture, while the Americans considered it as the opposite of theirs. It always made me realize the loss of my national consciousness or even sometimes made me feel guilty. But in this sense do I believe that it is safe to say that Mexico is a wonderful country.
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